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Clean Plate — Homemade Tomato Ketchup


I have a habit of assuming I can recreate anything that I see at the store, and even respond with “I can make that,” either aloud or in my head. A mosaic picture frame at HomeGoods? I can make that. Paisley-patterned drapes from Potterybarn for my dining room? I can make them. The simple, classy, striped dress I saw at J.Crew that’s way out of my budget? I can make that. The wings at my favorite restaurant? I can make them.

Sadly, I rarely break out my hot glue gun or sewing machine and actually make at home the many things I see in catalogs or on racks in pricey stores. I do, however, know my way around the kitchen and frequently lose myself in hours of testing and tasting recipes. Attempting to replicate dishes is a challenge I’m always up for, and, while they may not turn out to be identical, I usually end up with something pretty close and still delicious.

One of the other advantages is the ability to use ingredients and processes that are just a little better for you. For example, I could easily eat my way through Chinatown, but could also make an unbreaded version of General Tso’s chicken at home that won’t leave me feeling guilty. We could easily walk to our favorite pizza place, but the hands-on, slightly messy method of making it on our own is actually pretty fun. This recipe for homemade ketchup was my latest effort to imitate our most relied on, store-bought condiment.

Homemade Ketchup
Adapted from Serious Eats

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 28-oz can tomato purée
½ cup packed dark brown sugar
¼ cup white vinegar
1 tablespoon tomato paste
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground mustard
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon allspice
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger

Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add in the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Add in the shallots and garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato purée, brown sugar, vinegar, tomato paste, salt, mustard, cloves, allspice, cayenne pepper and ginger and stir to combine. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened to the consistency of ketchup, 45 to 60 minutes. Place ketchup in a food processor or blender and purée until completely smooth. Place a fine mesh strainer over a large glass bowl and pour ketchup in the strainer. Using a spatula, force through all of the ketchup and discard remaining solids. Taste ketchup and adjust seasonings if necessary. Pour ketchup into a jar and store in the refrigerator for 3 weeks up to a month.

I feel a strong sense of accomplishment when I make my own version of something I would otherwise buy at the grocery store. Soups and pasta sauces are way better homemade, mostly because of the love and care that goes into the recipe, or even for their nostalgic value. Condiments and marinades are better at home, too, but ketchup is something people tend to be very specific about. There are people that wouldn’t dare drift from the Heinz label, and those that swear by Hunt’s. This recipe is not for those with an allegiance to a brand. It’s tangy, slightly sweet, and the spices are strong; however, it’s completely different from any ketchup I’ve ever tasted.

Perhaps what I know as ketchup—the thick, shiny, bright red food accessory—has been so engrained in my mind that I can’t even categorize this recipe with the Hunt’s and Heinz’s. That’s not to say it isn’t tasty; my favorite aspect is the fact that I can actually taste the spices, specifically the cloves, and not just the tomato. Still, it’s somewhere between a real-deal ketchup and barbecue sauce. The condiment turns out on the sweet side, which could be the influence of the ½ cup of brown sugar. Luckily, the white vinegar cuts some of the sweetness with a tang. The presence of cayenne pepper is slightly apparent and certainly welcome, but is just enough as to not put this dish in the realm of hot sauce.

I now have two jars of homemade ketchup in my fridge and, though I still will rely on the bottled stuff for my morning eggs and bacon, this recipe is a refreshing change to the old standby. At the very least, I can say, “Ketchup? I made that.”

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