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Clean Plate: Short Rib Ragú


It was only a few years ago that my Friday and Saturday nights were spent with a large group of friends from college at loud city bars that specialize more in the drinks they make than the food they serve. Our outfits were planned well in advance and it was usually a given that we would be offering our couch and floor space to our friends who needed a place to stay. We usually continued the fun the next morning at a diner or brunch spot with lots of greasy food, strong coffee, and Excedrin.

I look back fondly on the time I spent as a “weekend warrior,” but find it miraculous that I once had the energy to go out two nights in a row. By Friday afternoon I am just as ready for the weekend as I ever was, but sometimes couldn’t possibly imagine getting dressed to the nines to go out until two in the morning. Truthfully, I sometimes don’t even mind staying in on Saturday night, too, especially as the weather gets colder.

Presently, the perfect weekend evening entails hours in the kitchen listening to music as I chop, dice and mince my way to a delicious dinner. Instead of planning a cute outfit throughout the week, I’m creating a list of groceries and making stops at specialty shops and markets. When I once only drank elaborate mixed drinks that only served the purpose of making one tipsy, I instead now enjoy a glass or two of wine with flavors that actually complement my meal. This recipe for Short Rib Ragú is perfect for one of those nights you’re up for a full shift in your own kitchen. It requires almost 3 hours of time spent on the stove but, trust me, it is well worth it.

Short Rib Ragú

From Giada De Laurentiis

3 Tablespoons olive oil

2 ounces chopped pancetta

2 ½ pounds beef short ribs

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup all-purpose flour

1 medium onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

½ cup fresh parsley leaves

2 cloves garlic

1 (14-ounce) can tomatoes (whole or diced)

1 Tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves

1 teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon dried oregano

1 bay leaf

2 ½ cups beef broth

¾ cup red wine

1 pound fresh or dried pasta

Pour the olive oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Cook the pancetta until golden and crisp, about 4 minutes. Meanwhile, season the short ribs with salt and pepper, and dredge in the flour. Using a slotted spoon, remove the pancetta from the pan and set aside. Add the short ribs to the pan and brown on all sides, about 7 minutes total. Meanwhile, combine the onion, carrot, parsley and garlic in a food processor and blend until finely minced. Then add the tomatoes and tomato paste and pulse. Once the short ribs are browned, carefully add the mixture from the food processor to the pot. Return the pancetta to the pot and stir. Add the rosemary, thyme, oregano, bay leaf, beef broth, and wine. Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Remove the lid and simmer for another hour and a half, stirring occasionally. Remove the meat and bones from the pot. Discard the bones. Shred the meat and return it to the pot. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and ¾ teaspoon pepper, or to taste. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until tender but still firm to the bite. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid. Add the pasta to the pot and stir to combine. Add the reserved pasta liquid 1/4 cup at a time, if needed, to moisten the pasta. Transfer to serving bowls and serve immediately.

The first time I had pasta with short rib ragú was my 2009 summer trip to San Francisco. Like many large cities, they have an Italian neighborhood that is home to many authentic restaurants with great reputations. It can be difficult to choose, but I got lucky when I stumbled upon Piazza Pellegrini. The restaurant’s al fresco dining area was what first attracted me to the place, but their ½ priced bottles of wine and extensive list of pasta dishes are what secured my interest in dining there. Over two years later, I still crave the homemade pappardalle and short rib ragú they served me. In all honesty, it wouldn’t take much for me to plan a trip back to San Fran; it really might be my second favorite city in the country. Still, if I was promised a huge plate of this dish upon landing I would drop everything to board a plane.

The big players in the flavor game of this dish are the red wine, herbs and the beef short ribs themselves. Using a strong, dry red like Chianti will serve this dish well as it has enough vitality to still be present after three hours spent braising the short ribs, which fall apart at the end of the cooking process. The fresh and dried herbs add a fresh scent to the thick, meaty sauce while the puréed tomato mixture adds acidity and sweetness. It’s pretty much a necessity to serve the ragú with pappardelle or tagliatelle, each a variation of a wide, flat pasta. The ragú will coat and stick to each ribbon-like noodle. My only mistake was using perciatelli pasta, which is shaped like spaghetti but hollow on the inside. Though I was able to get forkfuls of shredded beef, the sauce practically dripped off the noodles, oftentimes becoming quite a mess. What can I say? My impatience and appetite got in the way and I just couldn’t wait.

Casey Ann is a local foodie and blogger. Check out her recipes and reviews at www.cleanpl8.com.

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