Italian Food at an Irish Pub? Culture Shock Has Never Been More Delicious.
Fishtown is a fluid neighborhood whose residents cover many different American classes. One thing that bonds all of us together in this ever-changing landscape is food. So how do you establish a restaurant in a neighborhood with shifting demographics? It’s simple. Start with the freshest ingredients available to you.
That’s what Francesco Bellastelli does at Murph’s Bar, 202 E. Girard Ave. He’s cooking up an authentic Italian menu using ingredients sourced daily.
“I buy fresh every morning,” Bellastelli said, his English flavored by a thick Italian accent. “What is in now, I give now.”
Bellastelli is originally from Italy, and has only been in the United States for a year. He’s already worked at one of the trendiest Italian Market BYOB’s, Monsu. Before that he spent time cooking in Germany and Italy. It was a chance meeting between some of Murph’s regular customers and owner Greg Walton that put Francesco’s name on the table. “I just come in for a drink, and I ask why they don’t have a kitchen,” Bellastelli said.
Murph’s kitchen’s previous lives included a “Fry-Olator,” which is just a fun way to say deep fryer. After that, a basement transformation to an industrial kitchen capable of pumping out multiple pizzas as well as roasted meats in an amount of time that would make the average cook’s head spin. Then the kitchen went silent until a few weeks ago. The chance meeting turned into a beneficial opportunity for both parties, giving Murph’s a shot at making its mark in the besieged land of taco trucks, gastro pubs and just about any other food trend that’s staking claims right outside their door
Bellastelli’s attention to detail and fresh ingredients is especially evident in dishes like fried, fresh smoked mozzarella, which bears no resemblance to its frozen stick counterpart. Three generous sized chunks of smoked mozzarella are hand breaded, then fried. You can taste all the seasonings in the perfectly crispy breading, and the smoky mozzarella adds a wonderfully different flavor.
The proof is in the food, and it’s decadently good. Everything has lots of cheese. I counted three different kinds in my meal. I tried the gnocchi sorrentino first. The soft texture of the gnocchi blends amazingly with the cheesy red sauce. Flakes of parmesan and cilantro garnish the dish, adding a truly fresh authentic Italian taste. Next was fried meatballs with a side of ricotta cheese. The all-beef meatballs are drenched in Bellastelli’s own red sauce, and are the perfect textural harmony of firm and juicy. You get all the beefy flavor mixed with a blend of herbs and spices. If that isn’t rich enough, it’s served with two pieces of bread and a generous dollop of ricotta to be slathered at will.
Bellastelli pays subtle homage to Murph’s Irish heritage by using Jameson Whiskey in his hand made Tiramisu. He even cooked a full ham and cabbage dinner on St. Patrick’s Day. “I respect that this is an Irish house,” Bellastelli said. The fact is that Murph’s is the only bar serving authentic Italian food in Fishtown. You may want to bring some friends, and order up a few plates to share. You won’t be disappointed. “Everybody likes Italian food. Some people like cheese, some people like meat,” Bellastelli said. “I want them to drink a glass of beer and have a plate of pasta.”





